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To add, put the stylus in the dial for the corresponding digit using the larger numbers, and turn clockwise until the dial stops. The mechanism automatically carries the one without having to move in different directions like with a "shepherd's hook" design. Here is 31337 + 4.

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My Model A came with the original case, which was designed with a notch cut in the side so you can access the stylus storage and the clearing lever without removing it from the case. It also came with the original instructions!

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From a distance they look similar but the Model C was designed for adding Imperial measurements and has a dial that goes up to 11 for adding inches. Both models feature a dial for fractions on the far right, where Model Bs only have decimal dials. All models have a ruler on top.

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This is a pair of Addometers made by Reliable Typewriter & Adding Machine company. They were made from 1930-1960s. The top one is a Model A I think from the early 1930s due to "patent pending" text on the front. The bottom one is a Model C I think from the 1950s.

My favorite part of touring the U.S.S Midway was probably seeing the comms, sensor and radar stations.

"A new technology can inconspicuously scan the same surface [a blank wall] for shadows and reflections imperceptible to the human eye, then analyze them to determine details, including how many people are in the room—and what they are doing." scientificamerican.com/article

Going to Goleta/Santa Barbara for a workshop during the day... but my evenings are free. Anyone know any dive bars with good acoustic music? Or speakeasies with 1920s cocktails? Or coffee shops that are open late and have the best cupcakes? Or... IDK, something interesting?

I gave a short talk about on mobile devices at the in Regensburg last weekend (wiki.debian.org/DebianEvents/d) and I could present the slides using a with HDMI over usb-c connected to the presenter and phom (source.puri.sm/guido.gunther/p) as a virtual mouse. Needed some hacks still to e.g. bring up to exit full screen but I think we can make this work out of the box in the future.

I can see why when this machine came out it seemed advanced compared to a Comptometer, but the quirks make it tricky to use. I had to record multiple videos because I would crank past the stop and lock the carriage. Later models fixed these quirks and are much nicer to use.

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Clearing this machine is also quirky, you can clear the counting register with a clockwise turn of the top crank, but to clear the main register you must lift the carriage up manually before you turn the top crank anti-clockwise. Later models automatically lifted the carriage.

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To divide, enter dividend into register, clear counter and keyboard, enter divisor, shift so divisor is over column it's less than. Subtract until you hear underflow bell, add to hear the bell again. Shift left. Repeat. Quotient is in top register, remainder below. Here's 145/12.

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To multiply, enter the multiplicand, set the repeat key so it doesn't clear, then crank clockwise repeatedly for the ones position. Then use the handle in the front to move the carriage to the right and repeat until the multiplier is in the counting register. Here's 768 x 1024.

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Yes, I said the 2nd stop. This older Monroe has some quirks they fixed in later models, like precise stops at around 1:00 for addition and 7:00 for subtraction. It locks the carriage between those stops so if you overshoot too far you won't be able clear the bottom register.

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To subtract, enter the minuend in the keyboard and crank clockwise as with addition to enter it in the register, then enter the subtrahend and turn the handle anti-clockwise over a full turn until it clicks at the *2nd* stop. Here I perform 31342 - 50.

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To add two numbers, enter the first number in the keyboard and then turn the large crank on the side one full turn clockwise until it clicks at the top stop. Then enter the second number and turn the crank again one full turn. It automatically carries. Here I'm adding 31337 + 5.

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This is a Monroe Model G mechanical calculator that I restored. This model was made between 1918 and 1920, and is the bigger, heavier, much older brother to my Monroe LN-160x.

Security is like golf. You should try to get closer to the hole (a secure system) with each stroke. You'll probably use different clubs along the way. Some people only swing for holes in one and spend most of their time no closer to the hole.

Is there truly smart home where you hold the keys? It must start with open standards for how devices communicate. Only then is there a space where truly open alternatives to Big Tech smart home gadgets can exist for the average consumer outside of do-it-yourself electronics projects.

puri.sm/posts/locked-in-your-h

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